OK - the first major (not to belittle the less dramatic experiences in life at all in any way, shape or form.... much to be appreciated there) travel missiony extravaganza. I did not have a blog during this travel mission. I was eager to update as many contacts as possible with my experiences and did so simply through email...
After the mission, I had aimed to collate all the long, enthusiastic email updates into an E-Book or blog. I got as far as editing the tense of most of it and reading through it all, though became involved with other commitments and so it has not yet been done. Now embarking on new ventures... I thought I'd just collate all my expeiences onto a blog :-)))
I've just thrown up my email updates in some wierd tense-edited format up on here.... so do please excuse the inaccessible style.... I thought it would perhaps be better than nothing.... but just to emphasise that I do not plan for the other tabs' content to be as below... :-p :-))....
I arrived safely in Vladivostok!
Even in the far east of Russia - things seemed pretty similar to me; I seemed to concentrate on the similarities rather than differences between place & people when I am travelling...that is apart from the language of course! The language is most definitely very different and apart from my couch surfers...very few Russians wished to speak English....or could not speak English...
I might not have left Vladivostok until the end of August!...we knew there was a boat heading for PK then but we still tried to call round a few others to see if there are others before that time.
I might not have left Vladivostok until the end of August!...we knew there was a boat heading for PK then but we still tried to call round a few others to see if there are others before that time.
Change following red to just describing CS situation at Vladi & the options & thoughts.
I needed to consider if I wished to force myself to stick around here til then...or indeed, if I wished to. I could have changed to a youth hostel; as it's not very independent where i am at the mo as Ola (the CSer) does not live in the centre).....and without a hand on the language i am quite limited :)....i was expecting to maybe stay up to 2 weeks in Vladi or Pk (Pteropavlovsk-Kamchatskiy) but this was thinking that i would be doing lots of research & trying to communicate witht he locals there concerning finding a ship that will take me across.....but so far this is not needed as Ola has done it all amazingly!...and if i do wait for the end of august ship, then we know that we have a ship for me to get on...and there is nothing left to do....hmmm....we'll see...maybe i will be able to embark on a nother small project????,.....not requiring much Russian???....hmmm....
I slowly learnt how to say a few phrases of Russian with thanks of some of the Russians I met and a phrase book I bought! :)))
I will say that despite nearly dying of the heat on some days on the Trans-Siberian rail...it was a pure marvel!!! :-))))
I will say that despite nearly dying of the heat on some days on the Trans-Siberian rail...it was a pure marvel!!! :-))))
For some reason I expected actually mainly foreign travellers to be the users!!???? Quite the opposite is true – or at least that was the case in 3rd class anyhoo....so it ended up being quite an experience with real Russians (without English speaking ability) all around me; I did however, spot another person with a huge hiking bag....and thought I'd check with him if he was in a similar position to me :-ppp.... After a bit of hesitation I did approach him and I'm so very glad I did as he turned out to be a very nice chappy indeed, called Karole, and about to do something amazing....as well as a huge hiking bag with him he had a boat ready to be blown up....(ie. into a RIB - rubber inflatable boat). Karole left the train yesterday morning, before we reached Vladivostok, and was also staying one night with a Couch Surfer or equivalent. He then started the next day using his RIB to ride down a river... he predicted it to last about 2 months and was camping on the riverbanks amongst bears in the midst and possibility of tigers I think he said as well (one part of him wishes he could have a gun) The river is dotted with tiny villages here and there and he will approach those too - hopefully being given a warm welcome! I think he will have had no problem there seen as no doubt the locals would have been immensely amazed and curious about his trip – especially having the chance of meeting the person doing it in the flesh; plus Karole is a Russian-speaking, ornithologist, polish chap :))) He did lots of translating for me on the train (as he speaks English too, though sadly not German....as much as i tried to fish for this originally, heh – hoping to make use of my language skills); Thus the fellow Russian-speaking passengers around me got to know what I was doing. If Karole had not been there though, I feel confident I would have managed to communicate with the fellow passengers to a certain extent - justin a very different way..... using my translation book, miming and pictures for example!
Little did I know that the world map i had brought along was going to be utilised so very much!! It is quite in a tatty state now – demonstrating, I like to think, how well loved it is and what experiences its had :-p a sign of a glorious life :)....and after Karrol alighted, I managed to have a fun time with communicating with the fellow passengers - eventually in successful ways – even with a young lad also in my section.....heheeeeee – a wholesome and satisfying feeling it was to break through any cultural and language differences.
Of course, as I think is the case with most foreign travellers conducting some kind of adventure, it is very easy to form bonds if you are doing so on your own and so, on the one hand, it was quite a sad departure when Karrol and I separated. I like the way he expressed his mind at the time as being 'like a storm'; one thing that sending email updates/maintaining a blog and writing in a 'life book' helps with me thinks :).
The Russian-speaking fellow passengers were like animals investigating a new object when they saw my passport and 'life book'; we then had a 'passport party', heh, with others all rushing to share their passports with me as well.
Of course, as I think is the case with most foreign travellers conducting some kind of adventure, it is very easy to form bonds if you are doing so on your own and so, on the one hand, it was quite a sad departure when Karrol and I separated. I like the way he expressed his mind at the time as being 'like a storm'; one thing that sending email updates/maintaining a blog and writing in a 'life book' helps with me thinks :).
The Russian-speaking fellow passengers were like animals investigating a new object when they saw my passport and 'life book'; we then had a 'passport party', heh, with others all rushing to share their passports with me as well.
In the last few hours there were only about 4 of us left in our carriage as people got off at other locations near (well 'near' being at some point on the same day as opposed to the rest of the 6 days!!!) to Vladivostok; we had only just managed to open the window in our section....so I had a nice head-hanging-out time of it :-))) - it was a marvel and I was very appreciative of this opportunity; I felt confident that no such activity would have been legal in the UK or EU. It was grand to approach Vladi at night and oh so glorious to see the sea again!! Although it seemed sooooo calm when I was there! I went to the shore line briefly one morning and I was like....”Is the sea dead??” It was still lovely to be by the sea, don't get me wrong, but I do like a wave - especially when in a city; If the sea is not rough then I guess the city drowns out the wonderful effect that the sea normally has in my opinion :)....and I suppose the part I saw this morning was more like an inlet... so the land/city kind of cocoons the sea. ...taking its effect once again....(unless it would be woodland).
...I guess i was a wee bit nervous as I arrived on the train in Vladi; after reading about the mafia ruling the city at night, my arrival being at night and problems connecting with the Couch Surfer who I'd planned to meet me at station. This was the same when boarding the Trans-Siberian train as i had read repetitively in capital letters and very serious tone that it's DANGEROUS and DO NOT GO TO THE TOILET WITH EVEN THINKING ABOUT NOT TAKING ALL OF YOUR DOCUMENTS WITH YOU. So mentally, I think I'd prepared for some really dodgy looking people and suspicious characters....and even more than that in Vladi at night! However, this was unfounded and I did not feel intimidated/threatened at all. I had a feeling that from Mexico southwards that this my be a different story though. I could have just been 'lucky' not to have met what has been fore-warned yet - but I was thinking that luck wouldn't be a factor; that instead the dangerous atmosphere would always be continuously there..
I feel pleased to have written all of this (although it was not my intention). Hoping all is well with all of you, whatever you may be doing and there is no pressure to reply to these mad emails....but at least come December, if not before, I hope to hear a bit about what is occupying you presently :).
I have sooooo much more to share, but I will leave it there :). I will be meeting Ola (the Coush Surfer in Vladi) after she finishes work and then we need to go to register my stay here and sort our some other visa issues :).
Mission Update email J no.2 – add date here or somewhere in blurb below
Vladi to Alaska
Greetings dearest fellow Earthlings! J
I do hope life is treating you all very well J.
So, the last email ended with me arriving in Vladi. Well, I stayed there for about 12 days. I could say more on my time there but I shall save it for another time due to time restrictions now L J.
….I will say though, that the Couch Surfer, Ola, I stayed with and her partner, dog and father in law were so very unbelievably lovely!! Ola’s father in law is a ship captain thus he was the main one gloriously helping a foreign stranger with achieving their, some may say, far-fetched aim…..lovely to know there are still such people around J.
Unfortunately, even though the father in law was very positive that we would be able to succeed in now our joint aim, after 12 days and continuous “no”s from different ship captains, we decided time was running out for me to get to Panama. We investigated, instead my contingency plan of getting an aeroplane to Petropavlovk Kamchatskiy (PK), Kamchatka - all booked up to 10thSeptember!! Not good news as this would be far too late. I became accustomed to the idea of flying somewhere else in order to reach Alaska and scooting round reaching PK but we were next informed that we may be lucky if we go to the airport on the day to see if there are any standby tickets or cancellations. In preparation for this as Ola and her partner were going away for the weekend, I went and stayed with her father in law and mother in law for a night and day!!!....Heheheee - was not expecting this but heyho I was open and willing as they were helping me so very much…….Having said that, I did slightly think I was losing control over the trip and that they were making all the decisions for me. I could have protested but I think I needed to tread very sensitively and they did talk about everything that was happening to me so it was fine reallyJ For the most part the father-in-law needed to be the one doing all the researc as he was the one with all the contacts and Russian-speaking ability…. I guess it just slipped over into other areas too :-p. I think it's just fair to say I was looking forward to reaching PK and being the ‘manager’, heh, of my trip again so to say heheeee……
Before starting my trip, some Couch Surfers very kindly translated some material for me into Russian - basically comprising of descriptions of my travel mission and of my request to 'hop-on' a ship to get to Alaska with numerous options of what I could do in return for this. I would have used this to communicate with the ship-men had I not had these most helpful Couch Surfers – that indeed would have been quite another adventure altogether.....I do wonder how that would have turned out!?
Exceedingly luckily, there was a flight to PK when we arrived to the airport (the father-in-law, known as what is pronounced 'Valerie', drove me many miles to the airport and gave me lots of food when staying with him and his wife. In terms of maintaining my beliefs of being as eco-friendly s possible during this mission; I did try suggesting I would get a bus but he would not hear of it at all. I think I would have caused offence if I had done so – in the UK I would not have had an issue with this, but it seems a little different when in a different country, even if I hold the belief that we are all one and so on. Then again I feel confident that if I had explained calmly, and in detail about all the reasoning behind it of why I’d prefer the bus….. maybe Valerie & others would not have taken offence as he would have seen all the thinking behind it and not because I did not wish to accept his generosity. The language connection was not at all very advanced though, hehee, so it would have been mighty tricky to do this! Maybe if I commence further trips in the future I shall begin to apply my personal opinions more…learn from things I’d maybe have liked to be a little different in this trip. That goes for food too!!! (as any attempt to maintain a vegan-theme went quite a bit out the window). I could prepare for it beforehand by checking with people that it would be ok and that they understand and don’t mind me eating separate things. Of course my mind does also partly say: “….oh well, other cultures and when in Rome do as the Romans do”, but as far as meat/dairy/cars are concerned they are nearly present in all cultures all over the world, so I don’t think this applies. So long as people know in advance and are ok with it – I would never condone turning up unplanned and demanding such things. All that said – I do not plan to be travelling loads in the future anyway for this to be a major factor. We’ll see... Hopefully, you will enjoy reading my pondering on such topics and perhaps relate to them yourself.
Anyway…..enough of the ethical (in my opinion) pondering for the moment.
So – I could not believe I was boarding an aeroplane for first time in ages!! (Well – 'ages' being relative to flying every year or couple of times a year even when tagging along with family on childhood holidays). There were no problems all was fine and I marveled at the view as we descended into PK as there are many, many volcanoes and mountains soaring above the clouds…..it seemed like there was a separate life above the clouds!
Upon landing in PK, I thought I would get ahead, organisationally-speaking, and book the flight onward to Alaska straight away (rather than waiting to phone/email the lady who had told me about all the flight details); time had passed on too much for my liking to chance getting a lift on a ship going to Anchorage, Alaska, especially as in the final days before leaving PK I was receiving conflicting evidence of whether there actually were any ships going there anyways (contrary to my research up until that point)! I did not wish to chance the flights being booked up again either!J I had planned to still go to the port though and have the experience of trying to communicate with all the sea folk, using my pre-translated material...
HOWEVER!!! I need not have thought all this through in my head as prior to asking about flights to Anchorage!! - at the desk I received a confused facial expression from the assistant. The lady then made a phone call and passed me the phone as the person on the phone spoke efficient English (rather than my miming with my big map out in front of me…..heheeee!!). Likewise, a very confused and concerned look then grew upon my face too as indeed I heard in pure English: “NO FLIGHTS TO ALASKA”…..not even on the once per week on a Friday at 5.35am that had been confirmed to me just a couple of months beforehand……..uh oh,…..oh dear…….and not even ANY to anywhere in the US or Canada.
….I was still hopeful and for some reason thought that the flights must be so rare (as they only run in the Summer months as well and only began running for the first time in the last couple of years) that the front desk assistants may have been confused………heh! So... I met my Couch Surfer, Elena, whilst trying to philosophically settle the worry in my mind and managed to give as much positive energy to her as I felt she deservedJ; luckily, that night Elena went out, meaning, in my opinion, I could investigate my situation freely.
I emailed the TWO people (not one…but TWO people had informed me of existing flight connections) about the flight concerned. Sadly, one person emailed back pretty quick and confirmed the news to me……and I found in the meantime an article online confirming that all these flights for Summer 2009 had been canceled due to the economic climate and lack of interest. Would they not have known this before April????! Ah well - once more - philosophical relaxation of the mind and then a quick, efficient decision process very much needed. J
Fortunately, Elena was so amazingly nice, supportive and an incredible listener to me that it was probably one of the best places to be when faced with this problem! :-p :-).
She also helped me reach a decision quickly as to what to do next. It was great to let all the blurb inside my head out instead of it clogging up my mind. J
So, instead of going back to Moscow (which would have been nearly at the start again, relative to the amount I'd travelled!!) and then onward by plane to Panama (which would have only worked out a couple of hundred pounds cheaper….again not very much in comparison with what else I had paid and would be paying), I decided to continue onward to Anchorage via Vladivostok (Vladi) – yes indeed!! Returning to directly where I had just come from!) then China, then Seoul, then Tokyo, then Seattle….and then, yes, finally Anchorage!! J Lots of changes I know; the leg where I changed at Seattle and then still continued up to Alaska seems particularly “crazy” as I could have simply continued southward by bus to Panama from Seattle rather than flying further North and going south again by bus …….but well, what can I say?!…after all the blood and sweat I put into the preparations for this trip, I really was determined to continue the journey from Anchorage. I considered that it would not have been a waste of all the “blood and sweat” as I gained a lot of knowledge/experience and could even use all the info for a future trip there… but nevertheless, it was possible for me to act on the former option and urge – and so that I did do.
At least during my time in Far East Russia there were lots of enquiries about being taken by ship somewhere else; the more questions for such things there are, the more likely that in the future there will be such things available. By continuing my trip as near to the same as I had planned as possible, I experienced as much the same as possible as I if there had indeed been ships or flights accepting me in the areas stated - adding to the support of the bus/coach in North America from Alaska.
Arriving in the middle of the US, would have also needed further research as the journey would have been substantially different to what I had planned – even to the back-up travel plans.
Whilst in PK, after all the extra research and booking of transport, there was not much time to do anything else - nor enough money – BUT! - Elena had some intriguing & adventurous interests; she shared how she and her friends often explored old Soviet Union buildings at night equipped with torches and even a picnic!! :-p I was very excited by this prospect and asked if she would be willing to go on another such venture before I would leave - tagging me along as well! Always worth asking me think (so long as accompanied with an emphasis on “it really doesn’t matter if it’s not ok; I understand….”). This was the day before I was leaving – and Elena was still was so kind as to organize it!!!!J :-0. I was very happy to have the honour of joining them. J
Off in the dark off we went; it needed about an hour and a half’s walk to first find the desired, abandoned building – which had some outside structures in tow too. The exploring then commenced! J Not the most safest thing in the world; old building work that is not in use at all – just left to rut and rust – structures could maybe collapse with even just a little weight or heavy gust of wind in certain areas. I followed their lead of experience and tried to remember this before just stepping/touching anywhere. We had a little picnic within a very dusty room, hehe.
I was fine when moving through this history with them, but I noticed as soon as they moved too quickly ahead and I was still observing something behind - my imagination ran a riot and I became easily spooked…..especially after switching off my head torch light. It's interesting; I think after a couple of minutes or even seconds of adaptation to the darkness that forgoing the torch could actually be less scary….if one remains still, accepts the surrounding, frees the mind of all the unhelpful programming we have been brought up with – and just sense and be open to the truth in the room. Even if ghosts or other spirits do exist from the past – I live with a clear conscience and confidence in my chosen lifestyle; thus I do not fear that something 'bad' may be looming to come and get me – I think thinking we are guilty of something is very in-constructive....unless we are going to act on our beliefs! Of course there is the possibility that one could be submitted to indiscriminate horrors – my belief is that the unknown simply does not contain this....or if it does, I accept this 'risk' and look upon it as an opportunity to discover, experience & unite further with the universe.
A friend of mine co-ordinates a not-for-profit venture that aims to spread the messages from The Power of Now book by Eckhart Tolle. The following links touch specifically on the aspect of fear if you wish to delve deeper into that.
My desire to return to the UK from Panama by ship had, by this point, grown even more massive than it already was before……. After being very sad for a few days that I wouldn’t have sufficient funds to fulfill this desire...I fortunately then realised I had forgotten about a lot of money I’d changed into traveller’s cheques!!); this was a happy moment, I can tell you! Hehehe – what a silly billy!
However, by that moment of relief I had already thought that if I didn’t have enough money then I would see if I can somehow stay on in Panama and earn a bit of money to help me get back…..I researched it a little already too! I was that determined to come back by ship (especially after all the unplanned flights!!). At the time, it seemed tremendously difficult for foreigners to work in Panama (very rightly so as well, I think) as all the jobs are wanted to go to the natives; but some businesses/people can have special agreements with the government if they offer skills that Panamanians cannot offer...I read that people who speak German are quite sought after - maybe that would be a possibility for me, although I’d probably need fluent Spanish too and it wasn't at all fluent by then I did not think. I knew as well, that all people working at the Tanglewood Wellness Centre (the final destination of my trip where I shall stay for 3 months before returning by ship) are previous participants in the programme I am participating in; if all goes went with my stay there, I thought there would be a certain likelihood I could stay on until a position becomes available. However, I really did not know at this point so I was very grateful for having sufficient funds for the ship despite the above alternative options opening up further adventures as well.
The possibility of a ship across from Japan or somewhere similar, to anywhere in North America did cross my mind but it would have been far too late to book an official place now...months in advance are needed as far as I'm aware and they of course are unlike Russia and would not be predicted to accept someone unofficially. Additionally, It was all taking a lot of time to research, which I didn’t really have time for (thought I’d done all my necessary research including of enough backups before commencing the big trip – I guess one can never have enough backups!
…..At the time of writing most of this, I was in Seoul airport, South Korea. J I stayed in Vladi for a couple more days with a different Couch Surfer this time; a couple with a 5 month old baby!Was interesting to see a baby’s life so up close and personal and live with this lovely-seeming family for a couple of days – even sleeping in same room! Heh. I had a bit of a belly-dance session with Suzanna, the mother, she had performed this in the past...matching well with my love of dance.J
I had a couple of hours wait at Harbin airport in China – for practically the whole time, I was accompanied by these two nice-seeming Korean chaps who were also going to Seoul. We didn’t really speak loads (communication difficulties) but they seemed to want to stay with me anyway; maybe they felt sorry for me on my own, hehe, or maybe they were just interested in helping me or with my being with a foreigner...
So, yes, I was then in Seoul for nearly 2 days; I am staying in the airport. Sleeping in the airport. It’s not too rough actually. J There are others sleeping around as well….or…er….at least trying to sleep! Heh. Seoul airport is apparently known as the world’s best “air hub” apparently – it does seem pretty impressive and huge.
All these short stops being places I knew nothing about really as it was too spur of the moment & rushed to research them. So I noticed I was a tad more nervous about going to them than other places so far - even though I was only going to be in the airport, hehee.
SO! JJJ Many thanks for reading and CONGRATULATIONS for getting this far, heh. At the time of writing, I did not think this would be as interesting to read as the last mission update as it is filled more with my dilemmas of decision making rather than a lot of feelings about where I have been/things that had happened/things I have observed or noted.
Lovely-jubbly…. I predicted my next email mission update would actually be after I had arrived at Tanglewood in Panama; my next stops from Alaska southward were only going to be very short...but I also did not know when I may find time for a quickie. J
P.S. One sight I will share with you... upon arrival in PK to pick up my baggage - I first could not find it as you arrived outside and then there were already loads of people greeting their relatives/friends that I already felt as though they had their luggage already and could leave…...but I luckily remembered I still needed to get mine! Heh. I eventually found the baggage claim section…waiting outside for a little door to open after managing communicate my question with several other helpful airport workers/member of the public. We finally ventured inside - only to be accompanied by a stray dog (I assume stray anyhoo) who seemed only too happy to jump onto the luggage-gliding-apparatus-thingy majigy and join the suitcases and bags and all and sniff them out. A nice exploration for him imagined. I had to chuckle somewhat - though it all seemed quite normal to the locals. It was just a very humorous sight: seeing a dog going around on this apparatus/”ride” with the baggage :-p :-p :-p :-p J
P.P.S. I felt ready to leave Russia after nearly an unintended month of being there and looked most forward to the continuation of the trip...onwards & upwards I hoped :).....as well as a little break from any language barriers in the first half of North America.....and then the challenge of using Spanish; at least it's the same alphabet!!
Mission Update no.3 – Tokyo to Mexico
Howho there Everybody! :-)
Hope life is, as always, treating you wholesomely...and you it!
SO! Here’s the third mission update from me.
Here's the story that lead me to stop by in Taiwan very briefly!!!!!:
....hmmmm.....well, I certainly got even more challenges than I was expecting on this trip - and of a different kind; I arrived at Tokyo airport to find ALL flights to America cancelled due to a hurricane or a scare of one.
I thought I was in an extremely long queue in order to get things sorted but upon glimpsing behind me, I saw the queue only grow and grow further....so actually i was quite lucky :).
I must have spent about an hour speaking to the assistant dealing with me!!! :-o....poor him - and his poor eyes searching for any possible way for me to get to Anchorage by tomorrow night...ready for a bus to Whitehorse, Canada at 5.50am....
EVENTUALLY (after being encouraged to give up by the fellow many times and after my not wishing to and insisting there must be a way...and after searching connections through China, other airports in America, Korea again, other airlines, many phone calls, much eye-squinting on the screen...) a connection was found via Taiwan - then onto San Francisco, then onto Seattle.....then eventually dearest Anchorage - fingers crossed no more cancellations!! I could have still stomached a small delay if need be....only a small one though as the connections are quite tight! :-p :)...oh well, the world will throw at me what it will! :-)
Many thanks to the assistant helping me indeed for not being all domineering in his approach, thus making it more likely that I would have backed down and gone away :)))).
Another night in the airport for me - third in a row; not much really considering all the numerous nights in a row homeless people experience. Even though Seoul's meant to be the best airport, here seems to have more comfy seats. Officially, it was technically not allowed to sleep. I predicted on this night they would be making an exception as they didn't put the hundreds of folk who had canceled American flights up in hotels; too many i guess.
I hoped I would still be alive and able to get up in Anchorage for 5.30am after arriving at 1am with all these happenings behind me as well! Heh; felt confident the adrenalin would get me going. I was sad not to any longer have the opportunity to stay with the Couch Surfer in Anchorage – one of the ones I was looking the most forward to meet .....ah well; C'est la vie – got to accept, mourn briefly, express your views & feelings and move on! The airport staff allowed me to use their phone to let The Couch Surfer know that I’d no longer be coming to stay with him; it would have been an arrival in the middle of the night and only for a matter of hours before leaving at 4.30am for the bus – his response was laughter! :-p
At this point, as I resigned to my sleeping spot at the station thinking simply: Blimeyllll! For a trip that begun with just the possibility of one short flight as a back-up plan - it has turned unfortunately into a trip with a zillion flights it seems! :(((( ....:) at least I tried the other way I guess - would have always wondered...what if....
........I was just looking so VERY much forward to getting back onto other means of transport....in this case it'll be the bus :). Definitely tested my flexibility and adaptability skills!
At the next time of writing – I was in Buffalo, New York! As you can tell - I indeed made it across to North America; .the final flight was very secluded going to Alaska; there was not one person with less than 3 seats to themselves!
Hope life is, as always, treating you wholesomely...and you it!
SO! Here’s the third mission update from me.
Here's the story that lead me to stop by in Taiwan very briefly!!!!!:
....hmmmm.....well, I certainly got even more challenges than I was expecting on this trip - and of a different kind; I arrived at Tokyo airport to find ALL flights to America cancelled due to a hurricane or a scare of one.
I thought I was in an extremely long queue in order to get things sorted but upon glimpsing behind me, I saw the queue only grow and grow further....so actually i was quite lucky :).
I must have spent about an hour speaking to the assistant dealing with me!!! :-o....poor him - and his poor eyes searching for any possible way for me to get to Anchorage by tomorrow night...ready for a bus to Whitehorse, Canada at 5.50am....
EVENTUALLY (after being encouraged to give up by the fellow many times and after my not wishing to and insisting there must be a way...and after searching connections through China, other airports in America, Korea again, other airlines, many phone calls, much eye-squinting on the screen...) a connection was found via Taiwan - then onto San Francisco, then onto Seattle.....then eventually dearest Anchorage - fingers crossed no more cancellations!! I could have still stomached a small delay if need be....only a small one though as the connections are quite tight! :-p :)...oh well, the world will throw at me what it will! :-)
Many thanks to the assistant helping me indeed for not being all domineering in his approach, thus making it more likely that I would have backed down and gone away :)))).
Another night in the airport for me - third in a row; not much really considering all the numerous nights in a row homeless people experience. Even though Seoul's meant to be the best airport, here seems to have more comfy seats. Officially, it was technically not allowed to sleep. I predicted on this night they would be making an exception as they didn't put the hundreds of folk who had canceled American flights up in hotels; too many i guess.
I hoped I would still be alive and able to get up in Anchorage for 5.30am after arriving at 1am with all these happenings behind me as well! Heh; felt confident the adrenalin would get me going. I was sad not to any longer have the opportunity to stay with the Couch Surfer in Anchorage – one of the ones I was looking the most forward to meet .....ah well; C'est la vie – got to accept, mourn briefly, express your views & feelings and move on! The airport staff allowed me to use their phone to let The Couch Surfer know that I’d no longer be coming to stay with him; it would have been an arrival in the middle of the night and only for a matter of hours before leaving at 4.30am for the bus – his response was laughter! :-p
At this point, as I resigned to my sleeping spot at the station thinking simply: Blimeyllll! For a trip that begun with just the possibility of one short flight as a back-up plan - it has turned unfortunately into a trip with a zillion flights it seems! :(((( ....:) at least I tried the other way I guess - would have always wondered...what if....
........I was just looking so VERY much forward to getting back onto other means of transport....in this case it'll be the bus :). Definitely tested my flexibility and adaptability skills!
At the next time of writing – I was in Buffalo, New York! As you can tell - I indeed made it across to North America; .the final flight was very secluded going to Alaska; there was not one person with less than 3 seats to themselves!
I was so happy to land and put the aeroplanes and airports behind me. I was getting ready to go to a youth hostel when a stranger spoke to me asking where the flight had just come from and then asked if I was Jenny by any chance; my mind was scouring over the possibilities of who this chap could be….but before I could arrive at any answers he replied in unison with a growing smile: ….’I am Dale!’. I instantly knew then that this was the Couch Surfer from Anchorage!!! What a lovely, lovely surprise!!!! :-DD)) He went to all the effort of still coming to collect me – unarranged - from the airport, took me back to his….and all whilst not even hearing of the option of me making my own way to the departure point for the bus the next day at 5am (well…actually it was the same day...just a mere few hours away! :-p).
It was a very overwhelming, lovely time that was tweeked even more by rare sightings (on the way to Dale’s) of a dead moose (surrounded by police in the middle of the road who take it to a homeless shelter for food!!), followed by a living mother moose and her young! :-) I had not even considered there to be any real likelihood of coming across any such creatures.
After arriving at Dale’s I did not wish to go to sleep even though I knew I very much needed to due to a lack of it whilst sleeping in airports. I immediately felt so very much at ease with Dale’s flat mate, Jim, too! :-) ...and their lovely dogs! It was the middle of the night and just a few minutes of conversation - but it was nevertheless unforgettable due to the circumstances, kindness & the humour :-D.
Upon arrival at the departure point very early that morning (after sleeping – or tryng to - in a hammock!!!! :-pp)) I was surprised to see that the bus that was taking several passengers to Whitehorse, Canada, was actually a minibus rather than a bug coach……I was more than pleasantly surprised with this as I thought it would make the journey more social & cosy. :-D
I enjoyed enthusiastically meeting my fellow passengers for this trip, some of whom included:
Vladimir: a Russian/Pakistani that had been living in USA for 30 years-ish.
Gavin: despite being one of the last I spoke to he turned out to be particularly interesting to talk to and I only found out he was Irish right near the end! :-p he had been living for a year and a half in north of Alaska; not sure what he was doing exactly....but he was speaking highly of raw salmon....!
Jinen & Carmen: two Chinese blooded/born Canadians - lovely & friendly.
Brad: must have been just 20, if that……had cycled from south east Canada to Anchorage!! Little did i know that even these grand missions would become cocooned by another even more astounding journey (see part about Matt later on).
Two elder men from somewhere in USA: they had a rifle with them, which I was sitting next to for the whole journey!! :-p…..it was wrapped and cased….but still, heh – quite a thought.
German lady: weather reporter going on a canoo tour .....I enjoyed sharing the back seat with her as she was enjoying boogying to the Alaskan music accompanying the ride :).
The view from the minibus windows was rather spectacular as we drove down the deserted highways of Alaska and Canada; I had not seen views like it before …
....reminded me of all those never endless roads often seen in American films :).
We switched buses at one point and had a little wait for the next one – as well as a helping hand to remember this part of the journey by a seemingly crazy, very drunk Alaskan who seemed to think he was destined to communicating with us that something (we never understood what, heh) is just oh so brain damaged...
The only not so pleasant part of the jurney was that I noticed a bad lower back had formed in me...and the ride was VERY bumpy. In the end I had mastered some sitting positions that eased it a lttle and tried to not let it ruin the otherwise very wholesome spirits in the air. The back pain did ease off by the time of writing this.
Next up was the arrival in Whitehorse!! Little did I then know that this would be my last stop over night for 12 days...ie. I would then be sleeping on bus.
What a way to finish off the couch surfing it was!! (Although I did not know at this point that this would be the last).
After being allowed to use the drivers house phone, I stood in anticipation, in the dark, on a deserted Canadian street - at least I would not miss the Couch Surfer's (Greg) arrival!! heh.
After a few minutes, I noticed a car drive reasnably slowly past but not stop, despite my waving; from the Couch Surfing profle I felt quite sure it was his fine self - his trademark being a convertble car & a huge dog inside!!! :-pp However, as I turned to go after the disappearing car and wave more frantically, hehee, and when his car also reversed, I questioned myself, due to the presence of another guy in there too. Hmmmm....a son he did not mention??? As it turned out, the other chap was another Couch Surfer guest, Matt, like myself and...you guessed it! - Also from the UK and even from London! :-p I began to feel quickly at ease with the joyfulness of both Greg and Matt and their friendliness and interest in the journey thus far. However, I also cottoned on rather quickly that Greg was a little tipsy to say the least! I guess I put my faith into his abilities, was thankful the roads were empty and hopeful the ride woud not be too long - well on the one hand anyways because I was rather enjoying my first (maybe last) ride in a convertible with the added quirky edge of a huge, bear-like dog in the back!! :)) The chaps insisted I be in the front – even though I wanted to be in the back with the dog!! :-D.
Yes indeedy – I most certainly got my `dog dosage` whlst I was there; Sophie, a huge, lovable, quiet, extremely fluffy mongrel, was gleefully joined by another dog - looking like a mixture between a labrador & greyhound.....but with the energy of about 4 border collies altogether! :-p.....and yay! Greg allowed them on the sofas...... :-D.
Matt: how joyful that he was there as well - he was cycling alone from northern Canada to the southern most point of south America!!!!!!! - and that havng already last year cycled frm UK to Japan (minus the ocean parts for which he used a ship of course!). His personality did not disappoint this amazing side to him either. Although amongst the many interesting discussions (mainly when we became Greg`s DIYers as a thank you and put up a collection of photos for him) in such a short period of time, I forgot to pose a rather basic question: his motivation/reasoning for his trip. I can predict what they may be perhaps.
It was a very overwhelming, lovely time that was tweeked even more by rare sightings (on the way to Dale’s) of a dead moose (surrounded by police in the middle of the road who take it to a homeless shelter for food!!), followed by a living mother moose and her young! :-) I had not even considered there to be any real likelihood of coming across any such creatures.
After arriving at Dale’s I did not wish to go to sleep even though I knew I very much needed to due to a lack of it whilst sleeping in airports. I immediately felt so very much at ease with Dale’s flat mate, Jim, too! :-) ...and their lovely dogs! It was the middle of the night and just a few minutes of conversation - but it was nevertheless unforgettable due to the circumstances, kindness & the humour :-D.
Upon arrival at the departure point very early that morning (after sleeping – or tryng to - in a hammock!!!! :-pp)) I was surprised to see that the bus that was taking several passengers to Whitehorse, Canada, was actually a minibus rather than a bug coach……I was more than pleasantly surprised with this as I thought it would make the journey more social & cosy. :-D
I enjoyed enthusiastically meeting my fellow passengers for this trip, some of whom included:
Vladimir: a Russian/Pakistani that had been living in USA for 30 years-ish.
Gavin: despite being one of the last I spoke to he turned out to be particularly interesting to talk to and I only found out he was Irish right near the end! :-p he had been living for a year and a half in north of Alaska; not sure what he was doing exactly....but he was speaking highly of raw salmon....!
Jinen & Carmen: two Chinese blooded/born Canadians - lovely & friendly.
Brad: must have been just 20, if that……had cycled from south east Canada to Anchorage!! Little did i know that even these grand missions would become cocooned by another even more astounding journey (see part about Matt later on).
Two elder men from somewhere in USA: they had a rifle with them, which I was sitting next to for the whole journey!! :-p…..it was wrapped and cased….but still, heh – quite a thought.
German lady: weather reporter going on a canoo tour .....I enjoyed sharing the back seat with her as she was enjoying boogying to the Alaskan music accompanying the ride :).
The view from the minibus windows was rather spectacular as we drove down the deserted highways of Alaska and Canada; I had not seen views like it before …
....reminded me of all those never endless roads often seen in American films :).
We switched buses at one point and had a little wait for the next one – as well as a helping hand to remember this part of the journey by a seemingly crazy, very drunk Alaskan who seemed to think he was destined to communicating with us that something (we never understood what, heh) is just oh so brain damaged...
The only not so pleasant part of the jurney was that I noticed a bad lower back had formed in me...and the ride was VERY bumpy. In the end I had mastered some sitting positions that eased it a lttle and tried to not let it ruin the otherwise very wholesome spirits in the air. The back pain did ease off by the time of writing this.
Next up was the arrival in Whitehorse!! Little did I then know that this would be my last stop over night for 12 days...ie. I would then be sleeping on bus.
What a way to finish off the couch surfing it was!! (Although I did not know at this point that this would be the last).
After being allowed to use the drivers house phone, I stood in anticipation, in the dark, on a deserted Canadian street - at least I would not miss the Couch Surfer's (Greg) arrival!! heh.
After a few minutes, I noticed a car drive reasnably slowly past but not stop, despite my waving; from the Couch Surfing profle I felt quite sure it was his fine self - his trademark being a convertble car & a huge dog inside!!! :-pp However, as I turned to go after the disappearing car and wave more frantically, hehee, and when his car also reversed, I questioned myself, due to the presence of another guy in there too. Hmmmm....a son he did not mention??? As it turned out, the other chap was another Couch Surfer guest, Matt, like myself and...you guessed it! - Also from the UK and even from London! :-p I began to feel quickly at ease with the joyfulness of both Greg and Matt and their friendliness and interest in the journey thus far. However, I also cottoned on rather quickly that Greg was a little tipsy to say the least! I guess I put my faith into his abilities, was thankful the roads were empty and hopeful the ride woud not be too long - well on the one hand anyways because I was rather enjoying my first (maybe last) ride in a convertible with the added quirky edge of a huge, bear-like dog in the back!! :)) The chaps insisted I be in the front – even though I wanted to be in the back with the dog!! :-D.
Yes indeedy – I most certainly got my `dog dosage` whlst I was there; Sophie, a huge, lovable, quiet, extremely fluffy mongrel, was gleefully joined by another dog - looking like a mixture between a labrador & greyhound.....but with the energy of about 4 border collies altogether! :-p.....and yay! Greg allowed them on the sofas...... :-D.
Matt: how joyful that he was there as well - he was cycling alone from northern Canada to the southern most point of south America!!!!!!! - and that havng already last year cycled frm UK to Japan (minus the ocean parts for which he used a ship of course!). His personality did not disappoint this amazing side to him either. Although amongst the many interesting discussions (mainly when we became Greg`s DIYers as a thank you and put up a collection of photos for him) in such a short period of time, I forgot to pose a rather basic question: his motivation/reasoning for his trip. I can predict what they may be perhaps.
I tried my best to ensure I was not age-discriminate upon requesting to surf a person`s couche; Greg was 53 at the time if my visit - with the life of a "young`n`" though.
In town the next day, I flukily landed upon another British person after asking directions. The lady had been living in Canada for 35 years and insisted on driving me to the Tourist Information, a food shop & the Greyhound Bus Terminal - even though they were all within minutes of each other and also a very short walk from where we were standing. She then insisted on driving me all the way back to Greg`s, even though she was not sure where it was. After wooing down 2 drivers just in the middle of the road by hanging out of her car window - we striked lucky on the third - how groovy! A very helpful man indeed, who even turned around in his vehicle to come and help ...and was wearing good old glorious dungarees! :).
Sooooo - the Greyhound then commenced. The Greyhound was not as shocking/disturbing as I was preparing myself for from what I had read. I met some very cool/interesting folk! :) These included a drug dealer/rapper who rapped about the state of the world and reminded me remarkably of Jim Carrey and was just very entertainnig to spend two days on a bus with. He also destroyed a lot of the stereotypes associated with such lines of work.
In town the next day, I flukily landed upon another British person after asking directions. The lady had been living in Canada for 35 years and insisted on driving me to the Tourist Information, a food shop & the Greyhound Bus Terminal - even though they were all within minutes of each other and also a very short walk from where we were standing. She then insisted on driving me all the way back to Greg`s, even though she was not sure where it was. After wooing down 2 drivers just in the middle of the road by hanging out of her car window - we striked lucky on the third - how groovy! A very helpful man indeed, who even turned around in his vehicle to come and help ...and was wearing good old glorious dungarees! :).
Sooooo - the Greyhound then commenced. The Greyhound was not as shocking/disturbing as I was preparing myself for from what I had read. I met some very cool/interesting folk! :) These included a drug dealer/rapper who rapped about the state of the world and reminded me remarkably of Jim Carrey and was just very entertainnig to spend two days on a bus with. He also destroyed a lot of the stereotypes associated with such lines of work.
I met a gentleman who spends his life travelling all over USA due to his work of rebuilding places of natural catastrophe and a 25 year old guy who had just been released from prison on that very day!!!!!! He was surprisingly open about it; it seemed in the US one goes away for at least 7 months for drink-driving. The chappy gave me a bit of an insight about life inside - at least in the prison he was at; shocking stuff. I was trying to imagine myself in his position and felt so excited for him on his journey home! The final person I met on the greyhound was a self-proclaimed gypsy-at-heart & home-schooled lady; was interesting talking to her about many topics that we seemed to think similar on.
That is at least part of the story of my Greyhound travels; I shall continue from Mexico onwards in another email.....
I knew some were a little bit questioning of the worth of these long emails; I feel they are good - I knew too at least a few of you lot out there do too from your lovely messages and I know I would lke to read such things if I were to receive it...........and so on this thinking I continued with my long email updates.....:)) I thought that a summarised few paragraphs would not catch the life & passion, that I hope at least some sections of these longer, free, go-with-the-flow versions do somewhat :).
That is at least part of the story of my Greyhound travels; I shall continue from Mexico onwards in another email.....
I knew some were a little bit questioning of the worth of these long emails; I feel they are good - I knew too at least a few of you lot out there do too from your lovely messages and I know I would lke to read such things if I were to receive it...........and so on this thinking I continued with my long email updates.....:)) I thought that a summarised few paragraphs would not catch the life & passion, that I hope at least some sections of these longer, free, go-with-the-flow versions do somewhat :).
Mission update no. 3 part b Mexico to Nicaragua (Central America) J
Oki doki folks….
So! Mexico southwards. When I was on the end of the American Greyhound, one guy warned me of Nuevo Laredo, a city just over the border of Mexico where the Greyhound would be taking me to. He emphasized its reputation as the “most dangerous city in North America” - especially considering recent drug wars; he would never even enter there on his own, let alone a young female doing so!!! Such a great comfort-optimist he was… not that I of course think he should have been if it wasn´t what he held as true. Just quite funny and typical thing to hear - I had not come across this during my research so I was a bit skeptical to be worried by this man´s comments. I spoke to some others about it and they seemed to be more on my wavelength that common sense was all that was needed and not wandering around on my own with loads of money and such like. I was arriving in morning so I predicted that would increase the safety of my time in Nuevo Laredo.
Upon arrival, I did not feel intimidated by the location at all; I was just was very observant due to my intrigue J. Furthermore, due to the Greyhound arriving earlier than expected, I was able to catch an earlier coach connection too J. I just had a couple of hours wait at the bus terminal; even beforehand at the Mexican border I experienced no problems at all. As I shall write about later….it was the locations I did not read nor hear any warnings about that proved to be the very parts needing the warnings!!...
I was of course partially sad to leave the comfort zone of the English language (I guess due to having my comfort zone stretched in so many other directions as well) but also looking forward to hopefully thrive on the challenge of Spanish communication - it was really the case that I found it very rare to find people willing to speak English in all of Mexico and Central America.
Mexico southwards was really where I began to begin to feel it was apt to notice the differences more between people and lifestyles - although I still maintain that I predominantly focus on the similarities and seeing the differences as curtains just to pull back to reveal the same raw layer of life – human life – underneath… What is she rattling on about?? You may be asking… Don´t worry - I will leave that bit there….heheee.
From Mexico southwards and especially in Central American countries, I began to see little huts in the middle of nowhere, donkeys, cows (I think - though they don´t look the same as western cows), people riding in the open backs of trucks (coool!), people sitting/sleeping in unexpected positions/locations (places open in the middle of the night….though maybe that´s just because it was by the bus terminal! :-p), people carrying lots of heavy-looking items along the road (I wondered how far they had to go?), females carrying large bowls on their head (doing that tremendous, famous balancing act), sudden appearances of rubbish mounds, colourful, “run-down” buildings, people´s living rooms looking like they are outside (because it is cheap and very hot I guess?), very skinny stray dogs (not as happy looking as the ones in Russia) and people selling anything and everything on the street.
The bus journeys became full of much more “me-time” due to language barriers….but I was quite looking forward to some of that……
So, I began doing an English/Spanish tandem exchange in the last few months of my time in Austria (was doing European Voluntary Service with Greenpeace CEE) with a lady from Costa Rica (but of course her English was much more advanced than my then 3-word knowledge of Spanish). I admit I was expecting more people than did during my travels to be willing to speak English but I wanted to learn at least a little anyways as I feel it just respectful. After leaving Austria though, I hadn't really started studying Spanish anymore since being on the Greyhound. I then got back into action with it and now still am when in the Spanish-speaking countries as well; I find it cool and am liking the language.
The other huge difference I noticed was when entering Guatemala (as you will discover, I could not have not noticed it!!). An unfortunate thing happened…..they got me!! The coach stopped a short walk away from the authorities; I stepped off the coach, expecting it to be like any other border crossing…..However!!! I could not have been more wrong!! I was immediately surrounded by up to 10 Guatemalan men - all wanting, at first, just to exchange money for me. They all gathered in front of me so I was unable to see where I was going clearly nor could I move easily. They attempt this with everyone but I was the only foreigner on the coach so this probably just heightened their activity. I lost sight of any coach drivers or authoritative people and recognized that I had no idea where to go or what I should be doing. I also was concerned about where the bus would be to get back on it, when it would be leaving and how long I had to complete what should have been a simple task. The bus driver did wander past at one point and nodded to me to exchange money as places to exchange money would be closed when settling somewhere in Guatemala (as it was Saturday). Even though I had read that many places in Central America would accept American dollars and forgetting about the existence of my bank card that had been authorized to use all over North America as well as wanting to prevent any future problems - especially ones that may be my fault - I changed some money with them. This seemed to hush them for a while and they directed me to the passport control office - ahhh relief! Though little did I know that it wouldn't be for long!!
I got my passport stamped and signed anything I needed to etc (although the worker seemed annoyed I did not have a piece of paper I had never seen nor heard of before in the preparation for the journey) and then got ushered by these same men to the direction of the bus, probably 50m away - oh what a long 50m it seemed!! Yes, the guys surrounded me once again and grew in numbers to roughly 20!! Again they were staying in front of me and standing still; it worked as I then remained still. They then began saying I needed to pay $200 for crossing the border!!!! What!!?? I had read about needing to pay up to $10 - but no way a couple of hundred!! They persisted on and on in their very limited English, even though I was saying no all the time - they actually began reaching for money from my purse!!!! Crazy! I know: it was stupid of me to have my purse out in the first place, but I was expecting to pay up to $10 dollars….and they hadn't taken money from me in the office - so I was thinking that maybe it was just cultural differences leading to different ways of border crossings!!?? I was not shy to yell/shout and ask who these men were though it didn't seem to sway them. Even though they were very eager to show me a business identity card I knew I needed to get confirmation that I needed to pay this large sum for crossing the border!! I started just saying 'Ticabus man' repetitively (the bus company´s name). Eventually he came strawling over looking a bit dismayed and impatient with it all (I think the rest of the coach passengers were done ages before this point). I began asking him if I needed to pay this: he nodded. In the aftermath I realized he nodded in quite a dismissive manner and probably with a lack of understanding of what I asked - perhaps just thinking they were wanting to exchange money with me and I wanted to double check that again!
For some really ABSURD and CRAZY reason I allowed (obviously with resistance but still, at the end of the day: I allowed it) these men to take I think maybe up to $300 dollars from me!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! I still cannot believe it now, how I let it happen - all also so easy in retrospection though…..
And yes, you may be wondering why I even was carrying such amounts of cash! I'd cashed in traveller´s cheques as I knew I would need the money and did not want the performance of going to a bank in Panama to do it due to my experiences to be had whilst there and also the location of the centre I would be at. I also realized I should use as much cash as possible because the booking of the ship back to the UK needs to be a debit card booking. I simply rested in the knowledge that I'd always keep my bag by me and that I wouldn't be going out anywhere on my own and so forth….
Ah well….a tough lesson learnt I guess and another challenge to get over the loss of such needed money in order to complete my original plan (although THANKFULLY!! Hopefully not as needed as I first thought; I seemed to have more money in my account than I realized….that definitely helped me get over the event reasonably quickly….sadly..one may say).
…see what I mean about not reading nor hearing of the warnings for the one place I felt it was needed??!!
After trying to complain to the bus driver (after he confirmed that I needn't have paid anything let alone the amount I did) in my terrible Spanish, a gentleman over-hearing offered his support. He could speak English and he translated between us both. I was saying why was I left on my own, not knowing where to go, what to do. Even if the guys hadn't been there! Why were we given no warning of the men?? Why did you nod at me to suggest it was 'ok' to go through with the transaction?? Think I was probably being a little too demanding on the customer-service there perhaps (the Western culture probably coming out in me).
I discovered that he had no recollection of nodding to me and that he had given a warning over speaker phone on the bus before we got off about the men. Of course this was just in Spanish. Fair enough: I did not expect everyone or anyone to speak English, however, if they have a bilingual website and accept bookings from foreigners, I assumed we were welcome and wouldn't just be discarded or ignored. The bus driver didn't even need to be able to speak English nor me Spanish; all that would have been needed was to take a little bit of time to communicate with me on the bus beforehand - or even just to communicate 'follow me only'. The driver also explained how he cannot get too involved with the situations surrounding these men as he drives the bus through the area everyday and his life could be at risk if he as seen as an obstacle to the men's´success!. Ah well, nothing I can do except email the general Ticabus folk asking for improvements in this area of foreigner-communication and of course - think philosophically about the situation; I hope they do something worthwhile with the money….cough cough. The knack is, I think, to not have judgements about what would constitute something 'worthwhile'.
They guys simply looked like locals - in baggy jeans and t-shirt. They had wads of money in an elastic band in their hand - why oh why did I submit to the pressure??!! Oh well, I had at least a chance to use this experience upon crossing the next Central American borders where the same kinds of guys were anticipated.
The gentleman translating for myself & the bus driver also came over to talk to me (and after noticing a few tears - probably to comfort me as well!! Hehehee). He was very understanding and it was nice to talk to someone and get a nicer impression of the Guatemalans! Very non-judgmental of the man as well; I can imagine it would have been easy for him to consider me in disgust – assuming me as a rich, naïve, Western girl. I was thankful. J
On a brighter note, staying in a youth hostel on the night in San Salvador, El Salvador made a nice change (at least as a one-off) to Couch Surfing and they were very friendly and nice…again helping me to feel more at ease.
At the time of writing, I was presently in Managua, Nicaragua´s capital and it was boiling!! I guessed I best get used to it! Oki-doki…..I had just one day and a half left of bus-journeying then I would be in Panama!J
Final Mission Update – live written account
14/12/09.
OK Folks! :-))) Jenny Mace has now returned safely to the UK. :). Am in Eastbourne, East Sussex, at my parents to be more specific.
This means this will be the last of the humungous 'mission updates' from me...and I hope it is reaching you all in a content state. 'Thank gould for that!' I hear many of you cry in relief...LOL.
So! I believe the last update finished with me arriving in Central America with that warm welcome of the money that I lost......well, I won't comment too much on my experiences there but I “flew” through those countries in a speed much quicker than expected with the result of me staying in a couple of rather dodgy, extremely hot &-horror-film-like hostels....but I survived them. Thankfully.
Upon arrival in Panama in early-mid September where I would stay until the end of November (though at that time I thought I may stay on longer there)...I had chosen to finish off the way-there adventure by getting the local buses from Panama City to Tanglewood Wellness Centre, about 1hr and a half away....rather than getting picked up.
heheheeeeee....and glad I did have that experience.....the local buses are small minibuses .....with most bus stops being almost non-existent or just wherever people wanted....or so it seemed. :)
I took a single seat right by the sliding side door.....only to be greeted many times by an extra member of staff that the Panamanians, at least, seem to have on their buses (i.e. not only the driver but this other guy too) and a much welcome breeze each time when he would swing in front of me with much pace and with seemingly much ease pull open the door and hang out of it (vehicle still moving quite fast) releasing a shout or whistle or gesturing to people standing to see if they wished to board.
After experiencing this I was most pleased to know that the buses I was getting were from main stations so I need not think about identifying the bus being the one I wanted during that non-stopping, swift, shouting (still friendly) passing by, lol. The buses did not have numbers.....just big posters on the front of them with the name of the place they were ending up at.... and it was 5am and still very dark on top of all of that.
I loved the seemingly 'free', cool, chilled essence of this way of being....observing many trucks with people riding on them by simply standing on bars on the backs of them and hanging on......or sitting in the backs of trucks etc....also provoked this joyous feeling. They always seemed to be smiling and usually would signal a hello :))...especially on the quieter, more deserted roads.... I was always happy to communicate enthusiastically with them in those very brief instances. :) and found myself wishing to also be in or on the back of one of those trucks.
We reached the final destination....a very small place called Sora of about 1000 people or so, quite high in the mountains. Wow. I glanced around me and relished the realisation that I was in the middle of a very small place where no foreigners (apart from a few Chinese, who for some reason owned a few shops there) usually are. I saw only Panamanians around me.....and there was a school right in front of me and I was just in time for going-to-school time.....surprisingly...quite a strict uniform.....I had assumed, I guess, that a developing country would not prioritise the extra money needed for uniforms ....and with ties with the USA that they maybe being would be influenced by their way of doing things.....and because it is just so hot as well!
I knew that from here I would need to walk just about 1km and I'd reach Tanglewood!!!.....also a mind boggling thought after all the journey! :-p :))).....however, I did not know in which direction.....I had realised this the day before but was already away from the internet cafe and i would have had to send another email to find out. I took a chance that it would be simple enough to work out....maybe there was only one way to go?....surely otherwise Loren at Tanglewood would not have left out this important detail in his instructions? I knew if worse came to worse I had Tanglewood's phone number as well.....so heyho.
....heheheeeeee.....little did i know!!! lol. turned out now another adventure awaited me.....
the first thing thing I decided was to give away some bits of leftover food....I was now going to be fasting.....not good idea to have food in my possession....so I offered one young female on the street some packaged cakes or something and some already opened crisps.....she declined though......didn't take long at all to find a taker though :-DDD....I then walked a bit further up and asked a lady who seemed to work in the school.....thought she may want them for the kids if not for herself....I tried to communicate that the crisps were already open... seemed to be no skin off her nose whatsoever and the bright, friendly and quite surprised lady received my offer gratefully......yay! that was that sorted.....
well - I saw there was more than one direction to walk in....of course! heheee.....well I carried on in the direction that the bus was facing....thinking that if it was in the other direction then I would maybe have been instructed to get off the bus earlier.
I walked.....and walked some more...and some more! around corners and off into deserted seeming directions as I knew Tanglewood was quite in the midst of nothing else and was 5 acres of land itself...... feeling the weight of baggage and having asked a couple of surprised and happy locals who had no idea of the address I was pointing to on a piece of paper.....and having walked in a circle I sat for a little break and a ponder on what i might try out next......(my hiking bag was very heavy).
I had mentally ruled out the opposite direction for some reason....i think i maybe thought it looked like it lead to something more busy.....I contemplated on attempting to hide my baggage in some plants or something to allow me to have a search more freely.....that never came to fruition though.
I saw a sign for a public phone and went to that but it was not working!!!.....this seemed to be the only one I could see. not believing this I tried to ask where another would be but apparently it really was the only one and apparently people didn't own landlines there for them to kindly allow me to use their phone....whether that was a communication issue or not – I do not know.
....so then i bought a panamanian sim card so my mobile would work (was suddenly happy to have thought of this solution!) so I could use my mobile to ring Loren. This is when i realised it did not work....the number was not working! :>>//
I visited a very small medical centre without much privacy at all lol as I walked in on a small child having what seemed like an injection of some kind done!! heh. they did not know the address though and did not have a phone!!??????? heh.
I even visited the very small, very near police station....surely they'd have a landline phone I could use?? no it seemed not. But the policeman allowed me to use his mobile.....still did not work!!! uh ohhhhhhh.
ok at this point I realised i needed to email Loren.....to say I had arrived but could not work the number....another problem!!....the locals seemed to be saying there was no internet here.....heh. in the midst of all this I had sat in a little cafe for a couple of hours....to buy reflection and relaxation time and somewhere where i would chance on leaving my baggage whilst I investigated things further. ..... I also ate the last meal that would consist of cooked things for the next 2 ½ months and my last food of any kind for the next 3 weeks!!......although my mind was too focused on trying to think of solutions for the present dilemma and predicament that I couldn't really take that fact (surrounding food) in properly....not that I probably could have otherwise anyway. heh.
anyways! eventually the policeman guided me to a hotel across the road that apparently had internet.....the lady in there protested her innocence in this at not having internet.....I felt like going to look for it as if it would be hiding!! lol.
....the lady said that the lady in the chinese reastaurant next door had internet....again with a renewed sense of hope I troddled next door into an empty restaurant to find the lady herself on the internet.....yay! I thought....... this lady was not very sympathetic to my attempts at saying my situation was an emergency and so could I please use the internet.....she would not budge from saying NO,,,,,,not for customer use it seemed. she could not speak English nor Spanish!!! so my relief and tad of proudness for having made an effort with Spanish myself did not help too much here!.....and these feelings were instead coupled with annoyance to this lady....who was not being helpful at all and irritation that she did not speak Spanish when she was seemingly not new to living there.....
anyhoo!....I left uttering some sarcastic comments after moments of just standing in her empty restaurant in disbelief at her lack of helpfulness.
I was just about to return to the hotel, which did not seem that cheap to me and stay there for a night and I guess head back to the city next day and use the internet there......but very fortunately I ventured into one more shop.....also run by a Chinese man......he, however, was much more friendly and helpful and could speak Spanish :))))......and low and behold he not only knew the address....he knew Loren personally too!!....what can i say??? I felt like kissing him in that moment!!!! :-pp especially with the very easy seeming directions he gave me......I left with a new burst of energy and disbelief that I now REALLY would arrive within minutes.....actually Loren picked me up and took me to Tanglewood before I completed that final walk as he just happened to be driving by....hehe.....woooopeydooooes......
Turns out...the number i was trying was an old number or something......heyho....I did not care.....I was there....I had arrived!!!!!!! :))))
.....Before I home in on the astounding experiences through the Tanglewood internship.....let me finish off everything to do with travelling.....so i'll mention the journey back to UK now and come back to Tanglewood in a mo. :))
.....I was amazed to find still enough money in my account in order to get the cargo ship back to UK!!!!! I think some kind of angel must have helped me somehow???.....or maybe it was just the fact that since the beginning of my journey I always rounded amounts of money upwards (when converting dollars to pounds etc in my head) so acting as if I'd spent more than I had??? I would not have thought it amounted to several several hundreds of pounds though......heyho! I am exceedingly grateful that I was able to return to the UK in this way......and another kind, kind soul at Tanglewood actually helped me in this as well.....the ship left from Cartagena, Colombia (the original route I had planned between Costa Rica and UK had been cancelled! heh).....so I got an aeroplane there first of all......i researched the feasibility of using boats or trains or buses etc.....small boat rides of about 5 days were available between Panama and Cartagena.....however.....just out of my budget range :(((.....
.....there were bus options and very short $5 boat ride combinations of travel to Cartagena from a certain place near the border of Panama....however, one has to get through much dense forest to reach that location.....Im not even sure if as a foreigner I would have been allowed to venture through there.....but I was not about to do that with such little preparation time and research time for it....or equipment......and the Panamanian-Colombian border is known as one of the most dangerous in the world....so I was not going to chance anything at this stage in the trip (very sadly).... so I was planning on flying to that location....Puerdo Obaldia or something similar to that name.....in what would have been a VERY TINY aeroplane and arriving in what most would not recognise as an airport...basically on an ordinary street in Puerdo Obaldia....I read on previous travellers' bloggs that the locals just hear the aeroplane and so know when to get out the way!!.......common sense fully in use there I guess.....I like the sound of it! :)))
However......the "airport" was closed for "refurbishment".....or maybe any kind of 'furbishment' we could say?? heh......and I could not find another way of reaching that location in order to get buses and quick and cheap boats from there the rest of the way.....so I indeed ended up getting a (still very small) aeroplane to Cartagena from Panama......
I was very content with being able to experience the cargo ship at least the vast majority of the way and support this method of travelling. This was no problem for me.
....However you needed a credit card to pay for the ticket online!!!!! Crazy! they really wish to encourage everyone to be in debt in seems. I own no credit card.....seems this problem can frequently arise in North American and South American countries as I had this problem with the Greyound bus payments in USA too.......so this other kind soul at Tanglewood had luckily just got a new credit card and offered his help!!!!.....he sent me quite a lot of money without knowing me that well (just going on his instincts I guess) and I was very touched and so grateful.....the gentleman finished his oh so generous offer off with a lovely line of 'well, you know, we gain and receive by giving as well'. I tried to keep that in my mind so as not to continuously annoy him and drive him crazy with continuous bows at his feet and blessing him with oh so many thank yous.....LOL.
Without a doubt I would definitely travel again by cargo ship....I'm sure if anything the experience would only be more fruitful in the future.
It was quite surreal.....kept trying to imagine me being in the middle of Atlantic Ocean.....did not quite work, hehe.
There was just one other passenger on the ship.....he was German and could speak no English....so I guess at least i got a little German practice again.....though I found him rather irritating and did not wish to speak to him much (probably also the mind state i was in). The crew were great but of course they were working most of time.
The favourite part for me, lol, was entering and leaving the massive ship! :)).... that was when i was able to sense the ship's shipness, lol, at its most massiveness....... and it was funny when I first entered.....as if I was a highly important or famous person or something.....as soon as I stepped one foot on board it was walkey-talkeyed to the captain: "passenger Helene now on board.....I repeat ...new passenger now on board".....(we had on board names it seemed...i.e. Helene).
It was also interesting to see how it all works....maybe everyone else is already aware of this but I was ignorant of it anyways, lol, how the cargo ships look like and how all the products are transported....i.e. in huge metal crate/steel boxes.....they are secured to the ship......all 180 of them!! and they are all different colours and huge.....their content remains a mystery and when arriving at ports they get exchanged with other crates and get lifted from the ships via huge cranes.....and they are then secured to lorries! thought that bit was cool......so those huge back parts of many lorries are not actually part of the inherent structure of the lorry but rather a movable part that has most likely been around the world. heh.
The crew were solely Russian, Ukranian and Philipinish! apparently, with a slight variation including Polish & Latvian these comprise the main and usual nationalities that man these cargo ships.....I tried to question the crew as to what happened to worker input from all other countries?? crazy.
It also felt an honour to sit up in the 'bridge' and be amongst all the technical apparatus and watch from all around as we entered and left ports.
Think they do quite a hard job all the crew on ships.....many told me how lonely they often felt and that it was tricky being away from home for so long and with just the distraction and entertainment of whatever the ship and its surroundings provided. on the plus side though, they shared how they tend to work out at sea for 4 months then stay at home for another 4 months and so the cycle continues.....but during the time when they are at home they do not work at all!
The time situation was also a bit crazy, heheee......practically every other day there'd be an announcement for time to move forward by an hour. :-)
There were only 2 days when it was quite rough.....and the roughness moved everything off from the table in my cabin before I managed to beat it to it lol......we locked all cupboard doors etc as they'd swing open .....and eating was sometimes tricky! heheee.....sure cooking would have been a challenge too! heh.
Pleased to say I did not experience any sea sickness...yay!.....although as the only female on board out of 18 men.....they seemed to think I would be quite fragile in this aspect or be scared or something and quite often I would reassure them that I was perfectly fine :).....however, during these 2 days of roughness....sleeping was an issue lol....you just rolled around in your bed heheeeee.
So! back to the the wondrous, surreal experience that was found at Tanglewood. As mainstream society is so very different and Panama so far away .....it feels like I have just awoke from one big dream!! I cannot possibly put the whole very personal & very deep experience & process into words and what I will say will say most likely will be an injustice if anything! :-p :).
So, I fasted for 3 weeks; I drank only water and ate not a single thing! Following this I ate only 100% raw, organic fruit and a few leafy greens whilst learning about the whole process and two theories called Non-Violent Communication & Radical Honesty. Would recommend both of these books, the former by Marshal Rosenburg, the latter by Brad Blanton.....the latter is very entertaining as well as being a very cool idea :))).
So....why did I wish to do this? I had read enough about the whole idea of raw foodism to know there was, at least in my opinion, a respectable reasoning behind it....not just a load of barmy people! :-p :)) And the more I read, the more the urge inside me grew to try it out as near to 100% as possible and for it to work optimally fasting is recommended first to cleanse the body and allow the body to assimilate much more efficiently what is then put into the body..
I won't go into all the details of why its supporters and followers claim that the lifestyle & process works .... I do not wish to lecture you all especially as you may not even be interested heheee and I am not knowledgeable enough to do it justice anyway.....but I would just encourage you all to read about it!
I feel like a secret world and life has been unleashed to me.
Heh.....here is a thought-provoking, easy to read article if you're interested.....or of course just any searches on google will produce lots......but there is lots of 'rubbish' out there as well......which is another reason why I feel particularly fortunate to have chosen and gone to Tanglewood as an intern as well.....many dodgy places and people out there in the movement it seems......would definitely recommend www.tanglewoodwellnesscenter.com if you ever do something like this... :)).
I shared a room with a fellow intern for half the time and then we switched room mates with other interns......it was all very very interesting working and living together and we were all exceedingly open about ourselves and eager to learn and share.....we became very close in this way.
I could have easily stayed on as the Office Manager there....a full-time, paid position in the most glorious situation that it was. However, quite early on in my time there I listened to inclinations I sensed in me to return to the UK especially as I just became enthused about the possibility of living in the back of a minibus....!!! heheeee.....won't say more on that now but we'll see I guess :)). Would recommend the book How to Live Off-Grid by Nick Rosen. :)) I also had an inclination that, whilst I support the whole Raw Food movement etc and am very grateful and honoured to have been at Tanglewood and learnt so much.....I was unsure if it would be a philosophy that I wanted to create for myself and it didn't really match my desires nor philosophies to live at Tanglewood in Panama …. I think had I not had such an experience-full journey on the way to Panama, then I may have been inclined to stay on.... and I think as I hadn't tried out 'proper' life out of uni in UK yet.... I had an urge to do that and other urges..... in the future I could definitely see me joining some such community though...as long as I feel I am contributing somehow – again – we'll see. I have suggested to Loren that it he attains a social enterprise and charity status for Tanglewood.
Hooooorah that a decision to stay on or not was made relatively easily! :)
The other two interns have stayed on at least for a little while though! :) All the best I wish them.
The experiences were not over yet!.....Cartagena I found massively cooooooool! :)) Sure, like everywhere, has its dodginess and some people living quite rough lives.....but so much grooviness too....and again.....a wondrous, wondrous couch surfer that I stayed with for a week....i walked around a lot whilst there and sat a lot in the local, small park where I would sit and try to improve my Spanish more.....mainly being surrounded by Colombian men in the park for some reason.....and imagine my shock and then delight after looking up from my papers to see a huge lizard-family seeming animal on the grass just 10m away....oh i don't know about 6ft plus some more tail???...and it was moving towards me and then I noticed others in trees nearby and around......golly! turns out.... they are Iguanas :)) wow....just in the middle of a big city in a small park! hehe....i managed to communicate to the locals asking if I was safe to stay here LOL.....though no one else seemed to be running away! heh. then I saw the form of what seemed a squirrel....i.e. shape and size etc.....however, this 'squirrel' was not a red nor grey one....the only ones I was at that point aware of but almost a luminous red one with a couple of stripes on his little self :))))) heh. there were also quite a few of another animal in that small, small park full of hidden wonders! :)) heh.....not sure what the animal's called but it's grey/brown in colour, about 3 ft tall but with very very long arm span! huge claws on the end of the arms for climbing treees.....all movement EXCEEDINGLY SLOW!!!!! like the world was in slow motion all of a sudden :). very docile too!!!....some local workmen in the park one day decided to walk over to the fine animal and randomly take advantage of its docileness and pull it away and off the tree it was committing itself to climb.....lol......it didn't seem to mind.....just looked around in a seemingly bewildered manner with its minature head next to its enormous arms which were being extended by the workmen......heheeee. it appears the locals do not tire of the hidden wonders that at times appear in their local parks :)))). Sloths I think they were – the animals.
I definitely got a sense of how much more independent the children were in Latin America...and at such a young age.....I liked this. you'd see very young children just walking around on their own and they wouldn't seem afraid of you and seemed quite smart and 'with it'.
One final thing I'd like to emphasise is how unbelievably slow I reckon schools teach languages!!! I am amazed how quickly I was coming along in Spanish (only with few days of intensive learning.....not much other practice as it was pretty much an American community at Tanglewood).....and able to have very basic and humorous convos with some locals!! :)) was so pleased I'd made the effort.....you just gotta be bold and say whatever you know even if it's completely wrong, lol.....
I could share sooooooooooooooooo much more......about each section of the trip and experience.....but I will call a halt there....otherwise I'll die at this lap top lol.
I apologise for a very 'rubbish' final email I think......but better at least some kind of finish for you all who have been reading all these, lol,.....more details to follow in person no doubt whenever that may be! :)) I also intend to put these email accounts up on a blog or in an e-book.
I am now very broke (first time in life, lol....good experience at least once I guess :-p ) and beginning the search and thought of a more long-term job. :))
Lastly, I thank my parents and brother, friends and many couch surfers for their unlimited support during difficult times of the trip! :))))))))))))))))))))) Thank you so much for reading and following me on this journey and experience....
MERRY CHRISTMAS & HAPPY NEW YEAR TO YOU LOVELY FELLOWS FOR WHATEVER MEANING YOU CHOOSE TO GIVE TO THIS TIME OF YEAR.
JennyXxX :))
